Floods in famous cities

When in Paris I look for old postcards (Carte Postale) and could not resist this one. It depicts the Seine under water from the January 1910 flood. It just goes to show that Queensland should not be seen as the most risky place to live when it comes to floods. I recall people telling us that we should not buy an apartment along the Seine. Once I found these photos I understood. However we have stayed in one and whilst the views are some of the best, it pays to be cautious when buying.

Wikipedia report – In January 1910, Parisians were shocked to discover their river had overflowed its banks, flooding streets, apartment buildings and the metro system. Hundreds of thousands of people fled their homes and refugees gathered in makeshift shelters while the authorities moved on boats to rescue the trapped and distribute aid. The total damage wrought is thought to have amounted to some 1.5 billion dollars in modern terms.

The BBC’s Rory Mulholland in Paris reported on 25 January 2002 – The French capital faces a repeat of the great flood of 1910 that would leave hundreds of thousands without electricity and phones, bring economic life to a standstill, and cost billions of euros in damage. Environmental officials say there is a serious risk that the river Seine will burst its banks in Paris and surrounding areas this winter. Swathes of central Paris on both sides of the river could be submerged.The national parliament, the Musée d’Orsay, the Louvre, the national library, train stations and the finance ministry could all be flooded. Seventy percent of the underground transport system would be paralysed.

The rising level of the Seine in the capital has already triggered a first low-urgency alert this winter. What worries the authorities is not the level itself, but the fact that it was achieved with relatively little rain. The soil is so saturated that there is little prospect of it absorbing any excess water.

The Seine had another close encounter when in 28 December 2010 it rose to its highest level in four years, reaching 3.91 metres, just 40 centimetres short of the maximum level allowed for navigation. This is largely due to the exceptional amount of snow Paris had received since the end of November.

The residents of Venice have to put up with it every year. I took this photo in 2009 of a Palazzo entrance flooding and it was only September before the flooding period. If I were working in career guidance I would place every bright student into engineering, we need more forward thinkers in town and city planning. Nowhere is safe anymore, not a nice way to live your life is it.

Torta Nicolotta – Cucina Povera

The poorest people in Venice known as the Nicolotti devised this recipe with left over milk and bread. Last week I made one with citron – known as cedro in Italy and this week I used up a candied peach in place of the citron. To source and buy these ingredients in Australia you have to go to specialist shops whereas the citron would not be considered exotic in Italy and more widely available. The term Cucina Povera is a term in Italian to describe food made by the poor with simple ingredients and this fits the description perfectly.

The recipe I am giving you is quite faithful to the original that I suspect came from a Carol Field book on Italian cuisine but I cannot be sure as it is in my Tasmanian house library. I have a copy I typed on an old fashioned typewriter, in the days before I had a computer so that proves how long I have had this in my repertoire.  Now here is the latest news on this old recipe. I made an adjustment that would make most mamas and nonnas cry. I substituted the eggs for a natural egg replacer. No Egg is my answer for still being able to eat tasty food for an experimental three months of action to reduce my cholesterol. It is gluten free and according to the packet, ideal for vegans but I am just interested in testing how many times I can use it as a substitute without changing the flavour and texture or compromising the integrity of both. I have also used Logicol Light, a replacement for the butter and I know an aberration for lovers of authentic Italian food. As someone who hates margarine or any whipped butter substitutes it is quite a sacrifice for me but I don’t wish to take any cholesterol reducing tablets so this is all part of the experiment.

If you want to use the ‘egg replacer’, you just convert a teaspoon of the mix to 2 tablespoons of water. When you mix it with a whisk or fork it begins to look like lightly whipped egg white. NB If you use quality firm organic bread you will not need to squeeze the milk soaked bread.

Of course the light airy bread or even day old baguettes will break up and you will need to squeeze excess milk out. I used half of a sourdough and half from a hearty fig and pistachio bread made with Spelt flour.  Spelt has more protein than wheat flour and is a nuttier and sweeter in flavour. Make no mistake about this here recycled bread dish, it is not a soggy bread and butter pudding, it cuts like a moist cake. I dust the top with icing sugar and serve in squares.

A print friendly recipe can be downloaded here: Torta Nicolotta

Torta Nicolotta  –   my version of the original Bread Pudding from Venice

Makes 8-10 servings

350 – 400g stale bread or raisin bread, crusts remove

4 ½ cups milk

5 tbspns unsalted butter

¾ cup (150g) sugar

1 ¼ cups (175g) raisins

2 tbspns rum

5 eggs, beaten

Grated zest of 1 lemon

¾ cup chopped candied citron (optional but adds an Italian authentic touch)

¼ tspn ground cinnamon

1 tsp vanilla extract

Unsalted butter and fine breadcrumbs to line baking dish

Cut bread into rough cubes and place in a large mixing bowl. Heat the milk, butter and sugar in saucepan to a low boil and pour over the breadcrumbs. Let stand 2 hours.

Place the raisins and rum in a small bowl; add warm water to cover. Let stand at least 15 minutes to plump the raisins. Drain and pat dry.

Squeeze the bread dry and break it up with your hands to a soft crumbly mass. Stir into the bread the raisins, eggs, lemon zest and citron. Add cinnamon and vanilla and stir thoroughly.

Butter fully base and sides of a 2 litre shallow baking dish and lightly coat with fine breadcrumbs. Pour the bread mixture into the dish.

Heat the oven to 275 F or 18O c and bake until the top is golden. Test with a skewer after 45 minutes. If it comes out clean set aside to cool down. Dust with icing sugar when ready to serve.

Buon appetito Roz

Eating out in Venice, Italy

Venice Biennale

Venice has gained a reputation for not offering good or authentic food as it has such a high turnover of tourists. Restaurateurs were noted for their complacency but I believe it is improving. We took two separate holidays there last year (2009) and had no issues with being treated poorly or food being under par as it had been back in the early 80’s.

Inpronta Cafe Venice

We took an apartment on both visits and cooked many meals utilising the fresh seasonal ingredients bought at the markets but we still managed to eat out and well.

Harrys Bar is always on the list for first timers and we still revisit it each time, but remember the price is high for a Bellini cocktail which is what most people associate Harrys Bar with. You are taking up expensive real estate sitting here so someone has to pay. Contact details on the website.

More of Impronta Cafe Venice

Bar with no name. We have a friend in Venice who directed us to Matteo’s bar that he runs it with his brothers. There is no sign out front but if two lanterns have been hung out the front, it is open!  Good light meals and open from breakfast to early evening. It is in Calle della Misericordia, a tiny lane off Rio Tera Lista de Spagna, this is a continuation of the road that leads from the railway station.

GELATO You can eat gelato anytime and anywhere in Venice. Gelateria Nico is touted as the ‘in’ place to get a gelato but most are fairly good and since you are not always just where Nico is located you will eat elsewhere. I tried Nico’s much lauded ‘Special’ but it just had too much fake cream added, that is the cream that comes out of a gas bottle. It is too sickly for my taste  so I will just revert back to choosing the flavour I like next time. Fondamenta delle Zattere 922 Dorsoduro

Locanda Cipriani at Torcello. I have heard it is good for lunch but we never quite made it, so I am listing it for my next visit to Venice.

Impronta Venice

Impronta Cafe is one of the few modern fit-outs for a restaurant here.  We liked it enough to go twice. It cost around 175.00 € for 4 people to eat very well. As you can see by the photos, the serves were large and you could share them.  It is sandwiched in the narrow alleys so not easy to find. We looked for a street sign so we could find it again and once we couldn’t and another time we could. Good luck! Address: Di Tiburzi Silvia, Dorsoduro 3815/3817 (Near Frari) You could phone for better directions Tel 041 27 50 386.

Trattoria Dalla Marisa is ‘Slow Food’ accredited, maybe you might like to do as we did, walk by check it out and book as it is popular. If you go at night you just sit and take what comes out and pay at the end for the lot but it is not expensive and you get fresh food with a seafood emphasis. Day time you can order what you wish, a la carte style. It is near the Ponte dei Tre Arche (3 arched bridge) along Fondamenta Venier. NB Venice born residents tipped us off about this restaurant.
Cannaregio 652b Tel 041 720 211

L’Osteria di Santa Marina was excellent, good food and beautifully presented and price is high. Our meal for 4 people came to 236.43 €. Campo Santa Marina, Castello 5911

La Colombina meat and potatoes

La Colombina, this restaurant was reasonably handy to us when we wanted to eat locally and I can report that it was pleasant, not earthshaking, a bit rustic, large serves and well cooked food.

La Colombina's chunky salad

We were looked after well and 4 of us ate for 152.00 €.

Terrace at Hilton

Hilton Molino Stucky Venice

Go to the top floor for cocktails – it is wonderful. In converted Molino Stucky factory building. We did this on last night in Venice and it was perfect for forming a lasting impression. Tel: 39-041-272 3311   Fax: 39-041-272 3308

Pleases share with me if you have positive experiences in Venice restaurants.

Our local fish guy

Medieval food delivery

Roz